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Ponte Buggianese, Italy | march 2024

Around six years ago I came across a small collection of footwear that was very purist in form and detailing, with a strong emphasis on the material. Handmade from natural toned reverse leather, a product clearly designed to become more beautiful through use. The unique last shape and upper paneling straddles a line between old world and contemporary - a shape different enough to feel special, but not so much as to draw too much attention.

Perhaps this aura of specialness comes in part from more than a century of leather tanning knowledge, as the esteemed Tuscan tannery and now shoemakers 'Conceria di Cuoiami Guidi e Rosellini' was founded in 1896.

I purchased a pair of the natural colored derbys and proceeded to wear them almost everyday for the better part of a year - and still wear them today. Something about the shape just felt right on my feet. They continually cause me to admire this perfect balance of simplicity and originality - no easy feat to achieve.

As time went on, I wondered why they didn't make the shapes in more colors, and thus began a conversation that led to this project together.

We chose a unique and original color for the leather as a starting point - a very earthy anthracite exterior that, through wear, evolves into a warmer brown. Typically, Guidi achieves color through garment dyeing but for this collaboration we requested to dye the leather first before cutting. This retains the purity of the original form.